San Francisco Water Heater Safety Precautions

Posted by on Dec 4, 2013 in Plumbing Contractors San Francisco, Water Heater Repair San Francisco | 0 comments

Properly keeping ones water heater is important not simply so it works to its complete capacity and can conserve some energy money, but for security issues too. Yes, it can explode – it does not take place too often for property owners, however clearly this is something that we don’t wish to have occur to you!

Venting can be sort of technical however we will go over the basics right here. The vent must be the same diameter as the draft diverter of the water heater tank. It is supposed to increase and out (for atmospherically vented heaters). Not other directs like up, down, up and out. For direct-vent water heaters, the vent must go out a side wall. As for power-vent heaters, the fan blows the fumes out, so there is some flexibility in the direction they are vented.

Any roof or wall that the vent goes through must be a double wall. The single wall pass throughs should be screwed with 3 screws per section. If these essentials are not followed, the vents can fall apart with time and carbon monoxide gas can cause significant troubles within ones home. Obviously we do not desire that to happen!

The only other concern with venting is that of backdrafting. The fumes can consume the vents with acid condensation. If plenty of this gets on cold piping and the water heater it will not be a great scenario for a correctly working water heater. If the fumes return inside the rather of being effectively vented outside, the fumes can enter the living locations of the house. Soot problems can develop as well.

Dielectric Connectors
The steel water heater is linked to cooper pipes by the dielectric connectors. When 2 these 2 metals are put together in water electrolysis takes place. The procedure wears away one metal away to shield the other. This procedure is important in safeguarding the inside of the water heater. Evaluation for leaks must be done where the connections are made.

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
This is kinda of a crucial part of the water heater, for it helps ensure the darn thing does not explode under pressure if the temperature level surpasses the appropriate limits the water heater is designed for. Once a year (at least) the T&P valve ought to be inspected to ensure, it is working correctly, for they can be susceptible to failure. Just lifting up on the handle water ought to flow freely out and stop when the handle is let go of. If it simply runs or drips, or does nothing at all, it will need to be changed.

The drain lines for the T&P line ought to not be directed up, because water does not flow uphill too well. Ensure it goes down and or out please. If water is running out the drain line routinely, it is the indicator of something wrong too. It could be one of a number of different things that we will not enter into below – simply get in touch with a local plumber please.

Earthquake Straps
Yep, even if you don’t reside in an earthquake zone and are required to have these on ones water heater, it is a pretty good concept to do so. It looks like many all new houses in sub-divisions nowadays have the water heater in the garage. Yes, there is normally a concrete curb in front of it so one does not drive a car into it, however things can accidentally knock it over so be safe and strap that thank in.

Temperature Level Setting
It seems most residential water heater tanks have settings of warm – hot – extremely hot … and not degree markings. Some “ideas” on saving energy in your home particularly in the winter time, state to reduce the setting on the tank to 120 degrees. That’s fantastic for saving energy however legionella microorganisms, which triggers Legionnaire’s condition can expand at 120 degrees. By inhaling the mist from the water in the shower, one can inhale the germs. Look for a medium between 130 and 120 degrees. Above 130 degrees is technically a scalding temperature level so beware.

Anode Rods
These usually are made from aluminum and there is absolutely nothing incorrect with that in theory, though we suggest using magnesium ones. Let’s state for whatever reason there is some sort of emergency or disaster where one lives and one needed to utilize the water in the water heater for drinking water (due to the fact that bunches of emergency readiness individuals encourage doing this). The water that comes out of the drain valve is the water at the bottom of the tank. If one has aluminum anodes, that water will be packed with aluminum compounds, which is not good for the body. It is bad for the stomach, intestines and joints.

The anodes help with rust protection and are vital in extending the life of the water heater. They can likewise assist with smell issues with the water. Overall, magnesium anodes simply work much better for lots of different reasons like the wellness advantages, let construct up of sediment, a quieter water heater, and they often work better with softened water.

Drain Valve
Ok, simply check it a minimum of once a year to ensure the darn thing opens and works. And it is good to drain and flush the tank at least once a year anyway (something you naturally are doing already). If for some reason one needs to make use of the water during a disaster or drain it to quite a loud tank and have actually not drained it routinely, and it does not open, it will take longer to fix the issue you are at first trying to deal with.

Combustion Changer Hatch
Considering that gas and oil water heaters breathe the air drawn in from underneath, combust with it and exhale it, it is very important to keep the location around it, specifically beneath the water heater, clean and swept. If if is not burning appropriately, it can trigger preparing issues (mentioned above), in addition to combustion and fume problems and possibly be a fire threat. Some of analyzing the chamber and exactly how the flame burns is objective so we are not going to go into a great deal of information below. it is important to see if the combustion chamber roof has a great deal of rust or water markings or is black in color. These are not a pretty good indicator at all. One need to see some blue flame at the bottom when it burns and orange and yellow at the top, nevertheless, the yellow must not be very high up. One must see grey metal, some white condensation marks are okay.

We have put together an infographic to highlight the information above:

Water Heater Repair San Francisco

Phil Luther Plumbing Content Writer and Curator Phil is a prolific writer of content for plumbing related websites in the United States. Google Profile, Phil on Twitter, Phil on Home Energy Pros